Fancy Furs and Luxurious Leather at Day One of Stockholm Fashion Week

Published January 28, 2014

There are a few things one can always expect from Stockholm Fashion Week: ethereal blonde models, cathedral-ceilinged venues, and, of course, minimalism. This season’s opening show, Whyred, checked all three boxes. Designers Roland Hjort and Jonas Bladmo were influenced, as they often are, by an artist. However, this season their muse was the fictional artist “X”—a physical and spiritual traveler. There was a casual decadence to the clean lines, particularly in the chic brown furs paired with relaxed, slim trousers. The men, in their slim-fitting suits, epitomized the Swedish aesthetic. The paint-splattered variations epitomized Whyred.

Back is invariably Stockholm’s most rebellious show, but this season designer Ann-Sofie Back strayed from the brand’s hard, edgy aesthetic to offer a collection that was, as she put it, “More naïve and spontaneous.” This was best embodied by a pleated, pale blue dress fashioned from light-as-air fabric that billowed and danced as it made its way down the runway. The asymmetrical hems and relaxed jerseys were understated and effortless; however, the show’s concept was anything but. Playing on the notion of celebrity obsession, Back had guests stand behind velvet ropes, acting as makeshift paparazzi. Models struck exaggerated poses every few steps as mounted bulbs flashed intermittently. In keeping with the celebrity theme, the pink faces were inspired by the work of our founder, Andy Warhol. “He said everyone will be famous for 15 minutes,” Back explains. The contrast between clothes and concept was so effective, even VIPs barely complained about the absence of seating.

Carin Wester wasn’t on hand to bow after her show—her newborn had just arrived several weeks in advance—but her team graciously accepted the applause following her ’40s-inspired collection. Drop-waist coats were offered in exaggerated proportions and skirts fell below the knee, however, the plunging necklines reminded us Wester is very much a Swede. “[Carin] had in mind the French stylist, Catherine Baba,” says Thomas Pouverel, the line’s general manager who just so happens to be Wester’s boyfriend. “But she wanted to include a minimalistic touch—it’s the Scandinavian way.”

Day One of Stockholm Fashion Week concluded with J. Lindeberg, a Swedish staple. Hair was long and stick-straight, even on many of the male models, complementing the rock-‘n’-roll theme that permeated the show. Though the collection drew inspiration from the Medusae—jellyfish that live in the depths of the ocean—given the deep reds and generous use of leather, models could just as easily have emerged from the depths of a very fashionable Hades.

Check back tomorrow for more from Stockholm Fashion Week.