London Calling: Spring Makeup

London Fashion is not typically called understated. But change is in the wind, and I asked MAC makeup artist Terry Barber for a behind-the-scenes look at London Spring Summer Fashion Week 2011. Here’s what he noticed:

Romantic Nude Simple, understated beauty… makeup looking more like skincare. Dewy, buffed skin with a nude eye, a rose cheek, soft stained lip, and a groomed brow. We saw this look at Daks, Erdem, Christopher Kane.

Paint Box Color Brights. A very modern use of stronger color. Pastel eyelids, highly flushed cheeks or bright matte lips (all worn individually of course–not at the same time!). We saw this at at Betty Jackson, Mary Katrantzou, Richard Nicoll, and Jonathan Saunders and Giles Deacon.

Nineties Neutrals A return to neutrals. Grey, brown, stone, mink, and khaki. A return to proper beauty–monochromatic, almost quite “sensible.” All done with new cutting edge textures such as cream shadows and soft metallics.

One of the looks that I created in London was for Jean-Pierre Braganza (pictured), where I took a MAC Cream Color Base in Pink Shock and applied it high on the cheeks and temples, along with several coats of intense black MAC Pro Lash Mascara. Although there was still a lot of mascara-less eyes this season, I think that the “major lash” is heading for a comeback! Possibly my favourite type of beauty at the moment involves some kind of stronger color, with the rest of the face nude.

New York Fashion Week was more focused on the luxury side of beauty. Bronzer seemed to pop up show after show on highly sculpted faces. London went back to its quirky, individualistic roots. Both cities, nevertheless, are looking a lot less grungy, and definitely promoting the return of beauty.”

Sarah Howard is the editor of Beauty Banter.