The saints held sway at Givenchy. Riccardo Tisci has mined the ecclesiastical closet before, but this time he made it real. In studded black and white sandals, with stark blousons layered over coats and resplendent in satin and transparence he continues to redefine menswear this time in black and white and pink. The prints are the thing, of course. Givenchy’s Madonnas with extra-large halos team up for blousons, shirts and ties, or flit in and out of focus.
How about saffron from golden to sunset? Ann Demeulemeester tested her color range in soft trench jackets, pajama pants, and lots of layers, in tone-on-tone colors she’s never used before. The ensembles look like her gentlemen never left home, in a romantic way.
And you can say beddy-bye–or at least look like you just rolled out of one—in Comme des Garçons, too. Rei Kawakubo sent her boys to Johnny Rotten’s hairstylist for carrot tops held back with studded leather headbands and dressed them all in faded camo pajama suits and terry-like bathrobe coats tailored in hoodie, perfecto, and redingote style. The wake-up call arrived in thick strips of silver on the coats and black-and-gold gangsta oxfords.
Junya Watanabe picks a menswear template each season and sticks to it. This time was walk-in-the-park tailoring: masculine but soft. The three-button square suit with floral shirt and English schoolboy sport jackets, with patch pockets outlined in white with a bit of colorblocking, is this season’s “easy does it.”
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