Mamma Mia! Proenza Schouler and Rodarte

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Published September 16, 2010

PROENZA SCHOULER; RODARTE

 

Proenza Schouler is named for its designers’ mothers’ maiden names, as is Rodarte (until recently, Rodarte was based out of the home of sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy parents). And, if their respectively grown-up but flirty Spring shows were any indication, it certainly seems that both labels are remaining close to their roots. The Mulleavy sisters’ ode to ’70s-era suburbia would have suited the former Ms. Rodarte well. Offbeat brown patterns that recalled wood panelling, curtains, and wallpaper were sliced, pleated, and layered into high-waisted pants and paired with seductive cropped tops and jackets. The show was full of peek-a-boo cut-outs, which were centered within stunningly draped cobalt, white, and gold evening dresses.

At Proenza, the boys left the alt-girl of their Fall collection behind, in favor of a sophisticated lady-du-jour whose pastel, Chanelesque jackets and knee length skirts evoked all the trappings of mature femininity. A few looks in, athletic bras started to appear under the tweed, at first slightly exposed, and then in plain view. It wasn’t long before the sophisticate was undressed, draped in vibrantly hued boudoir style dresses that exposed ruffles, lace and hook and eye fastenings. After all, even the best mothers need a life of their own.