Louis Vuitton Gets It
Published October 8, 2009
I guess you could call it Heidi goes hunting, but then there was the hair-five ‘fros combined for a mushroom cloud wig with a bow… Full of fun, Marc Jacobs mixed up everything he could find out there at Louis Vuitton: bike shorts in metallic dirndl florals, hunting and fishing gear, Chanel-esque tweed jackets with army issue patch pockets, patchwork faded denim and clogs, only his had sculpted kitten heels and kinky long-hair fur trim. Kitten heels? As in the opposite of 10 cm stilts? Ah yes, what goes up, does go down, especially in Fashion. The new bag is a hunting world satchel skewed silly in pink with leather tassels and fur tails. (LEFT: LOUIS VUITTON LOOK 14)
The film clapboard invitation was an indication that John Galliano wasn’t looking ahead this season. So instead of a live stream to take his message worldwide instantly, he went back to cinema’s silent days, via Lillian Gish and Mary Pickford. Achingly delicate lace bed jackets and slip dresses sculpted with artful pleats worn baby doll short under droopy, hourglass turn-of-the century jackets, polkadot pumps on pearl-studded spikes , lapels adorned with diamond hair pins and flowers shaped from film gel, his remake of life behind the silent film scenes was gritty, stunning and artful.
John Galliano, Look 14; Hermès, Look 5
Hermès and tennis are a perfect match, and Jean Paul Gaultier put the tennis dress through its paces, worked around the kick pleat skirt, came out with several elongated tennis sweaters and cardigans and sportified the Marilyn Monroe halter dress. Even the Birkin came with a ball bag attachment.
Once again, Miu Miu was full of innuendoes of a sexy kind. This comes up periodically in Miuccia Prada’s fashion dialogue and it’s done with such whispering finesse. Children’s cat and dove prints scattered over skinny pants, curvy, cropped jackets with harness type belts and school girl collar blouses occasionally gave way to a voluptuous nude on the same ground so if you didn’t know better you might think you were seeing things. Next the jackets took on bra-like curves. Can whitened faces and bottom lash extensions make models look like they’re 10 or 12? By the end, Prada had morphed the school girl collars onto nude beaded dresses and her Lolita was complete. (LEFT: MIU MIU, LOOK 4)