The Inspiration Board: Kenzo is Back
KENZO 1985–86. SHOT BY PETER LINDBERGH
The layered, primary colored, oversized wool coats, the strange fascination with and conflation of all things Japanese and Native American, the louche fur caps—it must be the 80s. And nothing spoke to the time like Kenzo Takado’s eponymous line. Since then, the line has remained successful, but its boxier stylings have become more associated with businessmen than with the cutting edge of fashion, which is still officially devoted to circulation-stopping skinny jeans. In 2008, Kenzo underwent a peaceful and pretty much unscrutinized overhaul, as Antonio Marras took over artistic director. But after a strong Fall 2010 men’s presentation, Kenzo is back, and it’s never felt more of its time: Sneak a peek at the inspiration board for the upcoming spring 2011 collection, a very fashionable puzzle of floral fabrics, gradients, tartans, fishing boats, and traditional workers.