paris fashion week
The Schiaparelli SS23 Collection Was a Lynchian Fever Dream
At the “The Extra Ordinary,” Schiaparelli’s SS23 ready-to-wear presentation, creative director Daniel Roseberry blended his signature couture riffs on human anatomy, trompe l’oeil details, and cone-shaped bodices with everyday Americana looks inspired by films like Blue Velvet. To learn more about the surreal collection, our editor-in-chief Mel Ottenberg caught up with Roseberry and supermodel Ashley Graham for a quick chat about southern girls, “La Isla Bonita,” and David Lynch at the beach. — ERNESTO MACIAS
MEL OTTENBERG: You’re very True Blue, right? True Blue is your thing. There’s a lot of True Blue in here.
DANIEL ROSEBERRY: There is but mixed with a little Blue Velvet. David Lynch at the beach is where a lot of this one came from. I was on vacation at the end of summer at Il Pellicano, that hotel on the beach, and all of the women looked so chic by the pool. So we did a collection of gowns that were inspired by swimwear.
OTTENBERG: Oh, hot.
ROSEBERRY: It’s very simple. It’s a bit of a Halston vibe. There’s a lot of American references in the evening wear, which I loved; but mixed with the drama of True Blue and Truth or Dare.
OTTENBERG: Do you know the costume designer, Marlene Stewart? She was the stylist during True Blue. She made all the clothes because those clothes didn’t exist. What’s the song you listened to the most to make this collection hot?
ROSEBERRY: I would say “La Isla Bonita.”
OTTENBERG: Which is very this dress.
ROSEBERRY: Yes, very that dress and very that bathing suit. The Godfather bathing suit. I’ve been really—this is not the right answer, but I’ve been listening to a lot of Come On Over by Shania Twain.
OTTENBERG: The truth is the right answer. The truth will set you free. Daniel.
ROSEBERRY: Thank you.
OTTENBERG: I finally met you. She’s having a moment. As you said, you had babies.
GRAHAM: Yes, I had the babies.
OTTENBERG: You’re on the runway. You’re real snatched in this custom Schiaparelli.
GRAHAM: It’s not custom but it feels custom. Daniel and I just had a little moment because we both realized we’re from Texas.
OTTENBERG: Oh, sick.
GRAHAM: We might as well throw our country hats on.
OTTENBERG: Are you a country Christian girl?
GRAHAM: I am. I am from the Bible belt. My husband and I met at church.
OTTENBERG: Oh, wow.
GRAHAM: We waited until we were married to have sex.
OTTENBERG: That’s amazing. You know Daniel’s ex-boyfriend is my ex-boyfriend, who’s also from the bible belt, and his sister, when she got married, they kissed for the first time.
GRAHAM: Woah. That’s a lot. God bless them.
OTTENBERG: How’s Paris?
GRAHAM: I’m enjoying Paris so much. I’m trying to do all the things, but also you know, my kids are here so I’m enjoying a little bit of real life and the fashion life. I’m loving it. I was at Balmain last night.
OTTENBERG: Did you meet Precious Lee?
GRAHAM: Precious Lee and I have been besties for 15 years.
OTTENBERG: Okay, so we just became besties. She’s my new September bestie. I’m obsessed.
GRAHAM: Good ole Southern girls.
OTTENBERG: Yes, okay. I love Southern girls.
GRAHAM: Look, all the curvy girls are really rooting for each other because that’s what we need. We need representation, and girls loving girls.
OTTENBERG: Thank you. You’re so cool.