Sofia Testino Takes Uniforms From Drab to Fab

Who says uniforms can’t be chic? In Sofia Testino’s world, dress codes are the main event. The emerging New York-based designer has built her label around elevating the everyday clothes we’re taught not to notice, doing it all with a wink and a smile. Case in point: the fake gum on the bottom of her leather work wedges, the tape measure spooled around her red satin seamstress dress, and the three keychains dangling from a belt loop on her locksmith jacket, each molded after her own head. Her debut collection, set to launch in September, explores a fictional world built around uniforms and professions, with each look representing a different character within that universe. Ahead of its launch, the designer spills all her design secrets, taboos, hopes, and dreams in our fashion questionnaire. 

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What’s your number one design faux-pas?

“Acid wash.” 

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What’s the secret to a durable shoe?

“The person wearing it. You can make the best shoe in the world, but one night out can change everything.”

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What do you prioritize: Practicality or style?

“Honestly, both. I think there’s a sweet spot where practicality and style meet. You can be practical and still look steezy. That said, I’d probably wear a 1900s gown to the dentist and bike there (in heels), so I’m not sure I’m the best person to define ‘practical.’”

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Pastel or primary colors?

“I loooove color and wearing color and color combinations. Asking me to choose is like asking me to pick a favorite child. I like a pastel with a primary.” 

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What do you listen to when you work?

“Recently, a lot of Philip Glass.”

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What do you want that you can’t have?

“I want Tony Soprano (James Gandolfini) to be my husband and Michael Jackson’s pet monkey, Bubbles.” 

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What’s the most overrated trend?

“Veneers. I love natural teeth. One of my favorite smiles is Kirsten Dunst’s because one of her front teeth overlaps the others. I also love adult braces.”

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Dream Sofia Testino muse? 

“God, there are so many. Alejandro Jodorowsky, Brian Eno, Yaelle Avtan [from ear], Simona Kunst, Rosalía, Tilda Swinton, Chloë Sevigny, Suzy Menkes, Marian Henel, Bb trickz, Kembra Pfahler, Madonna, Leigh Bowery, Steve Jobs. The list goes on.”

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What profession has the chicest uniforms?

“Probably flight attendants.” 

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What would you never spend a lot of money on? 

“Any kind of ticketed event. Unless I absolutely love the artist.” 

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Does fashion ever feel pointless? 

“Yes 10000% most of the time. That’s why I want everything to have humor in it.”

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How can uniforms go from drab to fab? 

“I always like mixing different vibes. If I’m wearing a Victorian gown, I’ll wear it with something contemporary, maybe the shoes, so it doesn’t feel too costume-y. I think uniforms are the same. Accessories can completely change them and give them a different life. Mixing different aesthetics is usually what makes something interesting.”