Published October 15, 2010
Seemingly plucked from Valley of the Dolls, the rosebud knit tunic suit seen hugging Hanne Gaby Odiele’s curves during Chanel’s St. Tropez resort-collection presentation would have made Jacqueline Susann proud. Its nipped waist, fluid pants, and bell sleeves blended elegance with the sexual allure of a retro centerfold. The tunic-and-trousers ensemble proved a popular motif even for designers who weren’t tackling femininity from the pill-popping bouffant 1960s route. Céline and Valentino turned out neutral, minimal versions with clean lines and sharp silhouettes that recalled vintage notions of futurism. And at Calvin Klein, the elongated waist and pointed collar was reminiscent of the late YSL himself, who practically invented the look. It’s leisure at its most refined.