Paris Menswear Spring 2010, Part 4
Lanvin: Boys’ night out
Lanvin toughened up for spring via skinny, sleeveless jackets over cigarette pants rolled at the cuff. These are mostly in all black, or in summer darks, worn with high top leather sneakers (the house specialty) black gloves, sunglasses and croupier style visors which tie in back like a scarf. As for the season’s shorts, at Lanvin they look ready for a night on the town in tie patterned silk paired with contrast silk blazers, a shirt and tie. There is a night time vibe running throughout this collection with most suits on the silky side and a new wide legged, deeply pleated, very high-waisted and narrow belted trouser that would please Fred Astaire.
Dior Homme: Keep it simple
Kris Van Assche is one cool dude. This season has been a desert storm of Arabic influences, but not at Dior Homme. Van Assche concentrated on beauty and left the costume drama to others. His “Cold Love” collection for Dior reduced the season’s new shapes to their simplest expression. Transparent jackets layered over untucked billowy shirts with matching T-shirts in tones of dove gray and skin-tone beige look like flowing robes. And there’s plenty of those sleeveless jackets and knee pants to flaunt biceps and show off the legs.
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