Scraps of Paris Day 1
By
October 1, 2009
Peachoo + Krejberg, aka Peachoo Datwani and Roy Krejberg, have perfected their own kind of organic glitz, a mix of primitive Asian prints, zebra stripes, accordion pleats and glitter dust, intricate layering and lots of leg. It all began with peek-a-boo tailoring—transparent inside-out trench coats and cropped trousers—but by the end of the show, shapes were completely free form shown over rubber bike shorts. The most intriguing item here were footless nylon knee socks with built-in wrinkles: a new way to bare flesh while keeping covered up.
Gareth Pugh is gradually losing his London toughness for a more feminine softness. He was back in the concrete gallery space at the Palais de Tokyo, but instead of mad, bad black and studs, it looked like he’d unearthed a temple of chic mummies. All the shades of beige and dust swirled together in this collection from curvy zippered aviator jackets and frock coats to dresses made from strips of silk chiffon and knit stitched together here and there to look like a mummy coming unwrapped. Pugh tore silk apart for rag knit tunics worn with goddess feather headdresses, but there was also plenty of more down to earth zippered, secondskin tailoring to hug the body like a girdle. Daphne Guinness and Rihanna held court in the front row. Guinness says she’s in the process of writing a novel and is working on a shoot with David LaChapelle at Dublin’s wax museum where she’s been posing with some of the scarier works on display. (LEFT: AT PUGH, LOOK 20)
Martine Sitbon’s Rue Du Mail is for ladies who are always ready for a closeup. Showing in her atelier/store off the place des Victoires, Sitbon turned around tried and true embellishments: stiff frills curving around a décolleté, double necklines, draped waists, kaleidoscopic pleats and ribbon banding. The result had a sort of subdued Dinner-at-Eight feeling, like Hitchcock heroines who are all fire and ice.
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