Marc by Marc Jacobs
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What would Wednesday Adams wear if she were, say, 25, living in London, and picking up a motocross hobby? It might look something like Marc by Marc Jacob’s Fall/Winter 2014 show, held last week in New York. Tightly braided pigtails and black headbands hung over baggy sweatshirts and androgynous blazers. Models walked down the runway with a sullen glare, eyes encircled with thick, black liner. On the bottom were neon tennis shoes and biker boots, while motocross-inspired lettering made consistent appearances throughout. MBMJ, a revamped moniker, was easily slipped in.
The collection was the first by Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier, the brand’s new design director and creative director, respectively. Handpicked by Marc Jacobs to take over his 15-year-old diffusion line, the women made names for themselves channeling British cool kid fashion–Bartley with her namesake clothing label, and Hillier with accessories.
The team kept on Guido Palau, for hair, and Dick Page, for make up. Both seemed more than happy to oblige Bartley and Hilier’s youthful, edgy vision, departing from flamboyant touches and bright colors of seasons past (like last spring’s bright red neck scarves and sky blue eyeshadow). Here there was black on black on untelling pale skin. Though embracing the offbeat fundament of Marc by Marc Jacobs, they had moved it to a delicious dark side.
For more from New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014, click here.