An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx turned out luxe black and gold spring looks brimming with attitude at their AF Vandevorst show last week. Girls stomped the runway in dramatic leather or brocade gowns, bondage belts, lavish tasseled shawls and bedazzled opera gloves. Indeed, looks like asymmetrical tuxedo jackets with a single front tail, sexed-up vest and trouser ensembles, and a blazer-turned-minidress had a dapper sensibility. However, the designers had a little help creating their Belle Époque Rocker Dandy vibe, as sheer, oversized black or white fedoras, crafted by the one and only Stephen Jones, topped every outfit. Apparently, the famed London milliner created the perforated felt hats that covered models’ faces in AF’s fall collection. And Arickx and Vandervorst called upon him again to bring an alluring mystique to their spring looks. “Last season, our girl was a mysterious introvert, but now we wanted her to open up,” explained Vandevorst, noting that the hats “create a sense of modesty.” There was nothing modest about the topless model they sent down the runway in little more than a pair of slouchy white pants and some gold paint. But the white topper she wore tilted over her eyes definitely kept you guessing.
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