April Bloomfield Would Like You to Stop Squeezing Your Meat

April Bloomfield’s been cooking meat that makes people a little emotional, first at London’s River Café, then at New York’s Spotted Pig and The Breslin, where she became one of New York’s most celebrated chefs. After the fallout from sexual harassment allegations against her former partner Ken Friedman led to the Spotted Pig’s closure in 2020, Bloomfield kept a low profile for the next few years before resurfacing in 2023 with Sailor, the Fort Greene bistro she opened with longtime friend Gabriel Stulman. The restaurant, which has become a citywide fixture, didn’t feel like a comeback so much as a reminder that Bloomfield is a master at food built on restraint that still hits hard on flavor. Last year, alongside refreshes of Jeffrey’s and Pecan Square Café, Bloomfield was tasked with reviving the storied Driskill Grill, the 1930s steakhouse inside the 139-year-old Driskill Hotel. With the restaurant opening earlier this summer, Bloomfield joined us to shed some light on roast chicken, Salad Cream, and why she’ll never stop asking for more heat.

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What’s the last thing you ate?
I just tasted a little bit of Thai chili beef that I cooked for our team’s family meal at The Driskill Grill. I made it with fried egg, basil, and Thai chiles. It was really good and properly comforting, but I’d probably up the chili a little bit. I always want a little more heat, a bit more punch.

What do you love to eat alone?
Definitely chocolate. Milk chocolate is my favorite. I’m British, so I think we probably eat more milk chocolate than anywhere else.

What do you think when someone sends back a dish?
I try to investigate. There’s not much thinking beyond that. It’s more about finding out why they didn’t like it, and what we could have done differently, if anything. Then trying to rectify it and make sure they leave happy.

What’s the one food trend you’re relieved is finally over?
There’s one I still wish would go away, and it’s that thing where people carve meat and then squeeze it to show how juicy it is. I wish that would stop. Just stop squeezing your meat so hard.

What’s the one food trend you’re embarrassed to admit you love?
I don’t know if I’m embarrassed, but I do like watching people make cakes on Instagram. The glazing process and all that. I quite enjoy that.

What’s a food hill you’ll die on?
Seasoning. You’ve got to season and taste. Always.

What won’t you eat?
Honey. I’ve just always not liked it. I’ll try it occasionally, but it’s really not my favorite.

What do you drink too much of?
I probably drink too much tea. Always with milk, never honey.

What do you eat straight from the fridge?
Cold chicken. I always have a roast chicken in my fridge and just pull it out and eat it. No sides, just the chicken.

What’s the first thing you notice about a restaurant when you walk in?
I notice the design straight away, and then the details. Whether everything feels sharp and cared for, or if it’s starting to feel a bit tired.

What’s the most underrated city to eat in?
That’s a good question. I’d probably say London—there’s lots of great things in the city. I like going to the regular spots like Sweetings, Rochelle Canteen, and River Café. Mountain in Soho is great as well.

Where do you eat on your night off?
I usually go for good sushi and lately, I’ve been going to Neighborhood Sushi here in Austin. Another great spot in the city that I’ve been going to is Dai Due. But my wife cooks amazing food, so I’m always happy eating at home with her. Plus, it gives me a bit of a break from the kitchen.

What did nobody tell you about owning a restaurant?
Nobody really told me anything. I was quite young and I just went in to it blindly, trying to do the best I could with what I had and picking things up along the way.

What’s a dish that defines you as a chef?
When people think of my food, they usually think of the burger. I’ve put a good, classic one on the menu at The Driskill Grill.

What do you do in the hour before you open?
Checking that we have everything, making sure we’re set, having a cup of tea, catching up with the team so everyone’s prepared for the night. Sometimes I’m on my way to another restaurant in the MML portfolio to check in there. It varies, but it’s mostly about getting organized and ready.

What is the ingredient you could not live without?
Probably lemons, salt, and olive oil. I know that’s three, but I use them for nearly every dish. They cover the bases: salt, fat, acid. I like the acidity from lemon, especially.

What do you eat when you’re sad?
Probably chocolate. I know that’s come up already, but yeah, chocolate again.

What’s the restaurant everyone should go to before they die?
That’s a tough one. I’d probably say Zuni Café or Chez Panisse, both in San Francisco. They feel very of a particular time and a place, but still really relevant.

What’s the cookbook everyone should own?
Roast Chicken and Other Stories by Simon Hopkinson. It’s got great recipes, but also great little stories. It’s very much about him.

What’s the dish everyone should learn to make?
You probably won’t be surprised by this, but definitely a roast chicken. It’s so versatile. You can use it throughout the week and turn it into lots of different things.

What’s the one condiment that changes everything?
I’m quite partial to Heinz Salad Cream. It’s a British thing, kind of tangy, a bit like a runnier mayonnaise. You can find it sometimes in the U.S., but mostly in England. I’ll have it with roast chicken, or just on a simple salad. It works with a lot of things.