The Transformer

Published May 5, 2012

“I’m not very good at doing what other people want me to do,” says London-based jeweler Hannah Martin of the motivation for starting her own line in 2005 after consulting for brands like Cartier and Givenchy. “There were so many things that I absolutely loved about working in the luxury industry—the quality of the materials, the integrity of how things are made—but I wanted to do it in my own style.” That style—hard-edged and masculine with a rock ’n’ roll vibe—has taken shape over six collections. The most recent of these, Solaris, is inspired by mythic alchemist the Comte de Saint Germain and will launch in part this month. The shapes of the angular, emerald-embellished, white-gold rings and spherical, onyx pendants were inspired by 18th-century alchemy instruments. The pieces are perfect for an “understated, gentlemanly type who likes to wear a beautiful bespoke suit with just one signature piece,” says Martin—or a slightly rebellious woman, the kind who “buys her own jewelry.”