Rag & Bone
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For the sixth consecutive season, guests filled New York’s Farley Post Office—also known as the Skylight at Moynihan Station—in anticipation of Rag & Bone’s Spring/Summer 2015 runway show. An original soundtrack by Thom Yorke and Nigel Godrich greeted guests as they were ushered into bleacher-style seating (a change from Rag & Bone’s usual two-row bench setup), offering the first notion that this season might be slightly different.
“It’s a more demure show, and we tried a lot of new silhouettes,” explains designer Marcus Wainwright. “For this year we thought, ‘Let’s change everything. Let’s change the layout. Let’s change the music. Let’s change the styling, design, and collection.'”
Although Wainwright and David Neville still presented a largely menswear-inspired collection, femininity was embedded throughout. A white and taupe calf-length skirt gave way to an exposed midriff and loosely fit cropped tank top. Flat sandals and sneakers were paired with every dress.
“In the past, there was a temptation to layer a lot more things, [but] as you get older and more assured you can strip things back a little,” Neville continues.
Lack of layers might seem like drastic change for the brand, but the designers seamlessly transitioned to singular streamlined silhouettes and drew a larger focus towards bags and jewelry. A sheer white dress with cinched waistline graced the runway prior to an oversized jacket covered in a minimal camouflage print. Models carried leather backpacks and convertible bags. Natural fabrics—cotton, silk, and canvas—dominated the collection.
“You’ll see a lot of very Rag & Bone pieces, but you’ll also see a lot of sexier, give-a-shit kind of looks,” Wainwright says. “It’s about not just about giving the girl menswear, but trying to push the idea of how she can dress.”
For more from New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015, click here.