Rag & Bone

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“Today has been a lot of sitting around because we were ready last night,” Marcus Wainwright, one half of the design duo behind Rag & Bone, said prior to the brand’s Fall/Winter ’15 show last night. Wainwright and David Neville represented the staples for which Rag & Bone has become known—refined menswear tailoring, sport- and military-inspired looks—but also introduced a slight change in direction with the addition of bright colors and an overall ’90s aesthetic. Significant pops of bright orange and yellow infused the first portion of the collection, although they eventually gave way to deep reds and a more typical tonal palette.

“One of our inspirations was naval uniform, an evolution of that, and fishermen. That idea of slickers is something we got the yellow from, specifically,” Wainwright explained. “I have no real fucking idea where the orange came from. It just seemed like a good color to do. This particular fabric, which is a bonded wool, waterproof, technical fabric, came in orange and we loved it.”

The fabric in question composes the knee-length, double-breasted coat with an oversized shearling-lined collar from Look 16, which was paired with equally waterproof, ankle-length sandy brown trousers, an ivory and white lace-trimmed silk shirt, and monk strap shoes. While Wainwright cited nautical influences, the collection as a whole evoked notions of all things hip-hop circa 1990—slip dresses and nylon pencil skirts layered over form-fitting pants, slick nylon puffer jackets, and vinyl-coated melton wool parkas. Individual pieces and accessories, however, were as covetable as always, including the angular adaptations of Mary Jane heels and thickly soled loafers.

“The hair and makeup, the overall look is a little more pushed and conceptual than what we’ve done in the past,” Neville added. “We thought it would be the opposite of a winter color in some ways. [It’s] women of the sea,” continued Wainwright.

For more from NYFW Fall/Winter 2015, click here.