Jelly Beans at Rochas and Pugh’s Tough Liquorice
GARETH PUGH, LOOK 42; ROCHAS, LOOK 9
What’s a Parisian girl to do when the day comes down to a choice between Goldie Hawn in Cactus Flower 60s brights from Marco Zanini at Rochas and the lean mean man-eating machines from Gareth Pugh?
So the men in Gareth Pugh‘s show, the ones in Michelin man tube-quilted blousons and billowy crystal pleat Palazzo pants, were just arm candy? That was the word from backstage where Pugh sent out another snarling, expertly tailored thriller of a show for love ‘em and leave ‘em women. His chevron-spliced leathers looked like fat pieces of liquorice twisted into capes and curvy peplumed jackets in black and grey. Pugh’s strength is that he’s an outsider who’s willing to work like a sorcerer’s apprentice until he finds perfection in new, geometrically-inspired techniques. This he did with fine metal necklace chains in cascading layers for willowy dresses which shimmer, shiver and slither with every move.
If Pugh’s charcoal-dipped foreheads are too much for you it’s nice to know that Marco Zanini at Rochas thinks a smiley face and happy colors are all a girl needs next fall. Zanini went back to the day when turquoise leather pants and golden yellow pantsuits held sway, sometime back in the halcyon 60s. Looking like a pack of stews between flights, the Rochas babes mix casual with opulence. It’s as simple as a camel cardigan with gold elbow patches.