On the Fringes

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Published July 20, 2009

Ironically, fringe takes center stage for accessories and fashion designers this season. The swinging leather fringe on Repetto’s new tan ballets flat give the sleek little Left Bank shoes a
springy moccasin mix. London-based designer Johanne Mills’ pearl and tassel necklaces have saucy, slighty burlesque elegance. Plus, designer Eddie Borgo’s Wonderwoman style silver cuff with serious metal fridge added a captivating hardcore edge to the style. And on a larger scale, fringe-like forms cover the whole torso for the stand-out item from Diane Pernet’s selection of under thirty designers from over 1,400 applicants for NOT JUST A LABEL’s curated SHOP section: a black rope necklace top by Anuschka Hoevener. (LEFT)

The Berlin-based designer Hoevener is a personal favorite for her whimsical details like tangerine-sized wool balls, streams of
interlocked rope and soft wool padding into classic dresses, tops and accessories. Buttressed and framed by beautiful pleats, creases and other superior craftsmanship, the woollen balls, tassels and other details that would appear frivolous from other designers become distinctive and dignified under Hoevener’s masterful hand. And her
ability to link layers of loose rope into a sculptural, sophisticated garment demonstrates how a focused designer can make fridge into a strong centerpiece—not just a cheap frill.