Notes From Milan

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Published March 3, 2009

It’s only Week Two in European Fashion Week, but we’re tired. We imagine you are too; clicking through slideshows is tough. So we’ve selected our highlights thus far from Milan.

Looks from Versace

DONATELLA: ALL WOMAN
Michelle Obama was on the right track: Versace’s dramatic one-shouldered dresses upped this house’s already sexy appeal. With twisted, sculptural straps hanging assymmetrically or cut-out bodices revealing half of the neckline, Versace returned to what it does best— evening wear that’s both sultry and feminine.

Looks from Fendi

 

FENDI: CAP IT OFF
Choosing just one thing that Lagerfeld did right is nearly impossible, but the animal-topped shoulders are at the start of our list. Leading the pack with three looks with fur sitting where an epaulette might, Fendi heightened the structural drama while reminding the audience this was indeed a winter collection. And the pinched, high-gloss leather detail on later jackets? Makes us want to go arctic for the summer.

 

 

D&G: 101 SENSATIONS
Hyper, super graphic and like Glenn Close decked out in dalmatian, Dolce & Gabbana’s winter presentation took to absurd black-and-white-and-pink patterns  instead of heading back to basics (though, how many times have we seen ballooning shoulders this season?). The grounding moments happened when Marilyn Monroe’s wide, surreal face spread across blouses and hoop-skirts, smiling back at us, more print than portrait, laughing both with us and at us.

 


Looks from Pollini

POLLINI: SOFTEN UP
The ever-talented Jonathan Saunders hit the ground running for his second collection with Pollini —making exactly that: a collection. With fully realized themes and motifs, the looks ended as they began, with colorful swirls against dramatic black, baroque and architectural. Yet, when Saunders’ paused from his staunch military agenda to give a soft, greyish cream turtleneck dress flush with satiny folds, he recalled his more-feminine spring line, and really made us think: maybe we are being a little too rough on ourselves?