Mary Katrantzou

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Throughout her fairly short career in fashion, Mary Katrantzou has pushed print to the extreme. But her fall collection, shown over the weekend at Westminster’s Lindley Hall, was preoccupied with the multidimensional, marrying overstuffed Victorian excess and with the minimalism of modernity. Katrantzou lined the runway in cushy 3D pink foam packing material. For the clothes, silhouettes molded to the body in either simplistic shapes (shift dresses; cropped flares; pencil skirts; toggle coats) or nods to the Belle Époque (high necks; Victoriana ruffled hobble skirts; defined waists). Plastic, leather, fur, and rubber were all in play-Katrantzou’s major experiments this season were in material. Spiky glass filaments lined coats; rubber pieced together brocade frocks; tapestry prints were realized in fur. Rather than evoke some sort of Brontë sister-meets-Tron mash-up, Katrantzou envisioned a feminine, romantic version of the future. Ladies who lunch in 2075 will be very happy.

For more from LFW Fall 2015, click here.