Maiyet typically conjures visions of far-flung locales, tropical vistas, or markets nestled deep in the square of some unmap-able place. The ethically-minded brand, which sources materials and crafts from indigenous artisans all over the world, has exhibited a luxe, global nomad vibe in past seasons, but for its fall collection, which showed yesterday, creative director Declan Kearney found his directive to be of the more local variety. “This season was very much inspired by the notion of home, the intimacy one feels when in familiar, comfortable surroundings,” Kearney explains. “Maiyet feels like home to me now, having been here almost a year.”
The concept of interiors was a rich starting point for Kearney, who names the juxtaposed aesthetics of midcentury architect John Lautner’s Elrod House in Palm Springs and Casa Mollino, designer Carlo Mollino’s home in Turin, as major inspirations. Shag carpeting translated to curly coats in bouclé and shearling, and wall coverings into fil coupé details. Artisans in Bolivia manipulated baby mohair into lace effect knitwear, and tweeds and leathers came together in structured coats and jackets, many of them with a prim ‘60s feel, updated with snaps or cut outs. Sensual silks, tulle, and lace fabricated a variety of lingerie elements—slipdresses, shorts, and bras—elegantly filtered through Kearney to exude a sexy, but polished undone-ness, paired with a fetish kick of leather or laced-up back detailing.
Rendered in “dirty, slightly twisted pastels,” Kearney notes, “[colors] were carefully selected to play off each other and create unexpected combinations. I love when colors come alive when played against skin tone, eye color, and hair color.” On the whole, Kearney’s embrace of a grown-up sex appeal hit home (pardon the pun). He describes the fall Maiyet girl, as “alluring, sensual, playful, provocative, and confident.” The same could be said for the clothes.