Planet Jeremy Scott

By
Photography Hao Zeng

Published September 15, 2015


PHOTOS: HAO ZENG.

It Conquered the World. The it of this 1956 Roger Corman B-movie refers to a grotesque alien descending from the heavens, but it also deftly describes the riotous fashion mania incited by Jeremy Scott. Scott deals in pop; his kooky collections for Moschino have re-appropriated Barbie and McDonald’s, but his eponymous line provides a livelier, more homegrown deconstruction of tongue-in-cheek American youth culture. For Spring/Summer ’16, his collection reconfigured ’60s B-movie femmebots through an ’80s B-52s lens and ’90s Deee-Lite retro devotion: Valley of the Dolls on Venus, on ecstasy. Gigi and Bella Hadid were among the flamboyantly wigged and heavily eyeliner-ed models in gridded mini shift dresses, jelly silicone mules, polka dot leather, metallic lady-like collared jackets, and swimwear overlain with Paco Rabanne-like chainmail cover-ups, constructed from plastic discs. The clothes were loaded with a nostalgia for retrofuturism nostalgic for retrofuturism, but Scott proved that kitsch can be timeless.