Erdem Takes a Stroke from Jackson Pollock
“I love the film Pollock,” said designer Erdem Moralioglu backstage after his dark, painterly show Monday afternoon. His admiration of the film—and, of course, its iconic Abstract Expressionist protagonist—was evident in the teal, violet, rose, and cherry splatter prints that covered slick trenches, demure pencil skirts, sheer collared blouses, and velvet.
He added that the film and, more importantly, the collection, were very much about a duality: the control of the ’50s and the rebellion of an artist going mad. “She’s taking the canvases and cutting them up and wearing them,” said Moralioglu of his fall woman. Even the accessories, which included paint-printed Nicholas Kirkwood booties and pumps, opera gloves and crystal drop earrings, had a care-free artistic influence. “I loved the idea that she’s an uptown woman who dropped her Harry Winstons on the canvas. They’re covered in paint. And she’s kind of coming undone.”
Perhaps in spirit, she’s a bit disheveled, with her flyaway braided hair and barely-there makeup. But Moralioglu’s fall woman, in her re-hashed tweed dresses, skinny tailored suits, and fluttering winged gowns, looked ready to face any Guggenheim gala. In fact, now that we think about it, does anyone else see a hint of Peggy G in Erdem’s rich girl gone wild?