Calvin Klein

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For Fall 2015, Calvin Klein Collection creative director Francisco Costa showed some of the most envy-inducing coats of the week. As most New Yorkers will attest, a proper statement jacket or coat—equal parts form and function—is an absolute necessity, especially when navigating the bitter cold and sauntering into event after event, oftentimes within the same evening.

While Mary Quant, Marianne Faithfull, and Edie Sedgwick are obvious, if apt, references, it’s worth noting this generation’s reformed “Chelsea Girl,” Sienna Miller, was seated front row. But Costa offered something that was quieter, utterly special and unique in its luxe yet homespun quality. Hems were frayed, bands of leather restrained 3D-like strips of aubergine fur, and the abbreviated moto jackets paired with low-slung gaucho pants in coordinating patchwork suede and pony hair took on a late ’60s/early ’70s vibe. Technical takes on waxed tweeds and rippled patent leather manifested in a pair of yummy pea coats (worn with mile-high, thigh-high calfskin boots) in either merlot or noir with oversize Miss Mary Mack buttons.

While on the topic of adornment, silver grommets pierced both leather mini dresses and languid knits, some short, and others that stopped just above the ankle. Again, also frayed. The new chainmail, rendered in what appeared to be a continuous grid of miniature squares of suede, made for a triumphant finale in a trio of slim LBDs with a modernist Joan of Arc feel.

For more from NYFW Fall/Winter 2015, click here.