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Roman Polanski, Stanley Kubrick, and Joseph Altuzarra’s upcoming wedding all influenced Altuzarra’s S/S 2015 collection. Pastel dresses brought to mind Mia Farrow in Rosemary’s Baby, but with open seams lashed with ribbon, revealing sensual skin beneath; pink and red floral prints and pearl and beaded embroidery on tulle dresses felt like an update of the lavish 18th-century costumes in Kubrick’s Barry Lyndon; gingham dresses were almost too milkmaid-wholesome, suggesting something sexy simmering beneath the surface. An, to top it all off, models walked down the runway to a hypnotic electronic score created by Sebastien Perrin, who incorporated the original Rosemary’s Baby soundtrack.
“It starts a lot of times thinking about a feeling—in this case, I was thinking about romance because I’m getting married soon,” the designer explained of his inspiration.”I was thinking about romance and I was on a plane. I had read about the lighting in Barry Lyndon in an interview with Stanley Kubrick—I was amazed at how he lit the set with candlelight. So I watched the film on the plane. It got me thinking a lot about this idea of almost sinister femininity. That was the beginning of the creative process.”
For more from New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015, click here.