Influenced by artist André Kertész, Acne’s Johnny Johansson reshaped the female form to create voluminous rigid coats crafted from men’s shoe leather, rippling vinyl dresses draped with the ease of silk, bunched, padded nylon tops and extreme corset belts that exaggerated the waist. “Kertész does these pictures of people and then distorts them. It really spoke to me because it felt modern and punk and at the same time, it’s really classy,” said Johansson of his inspiration.
The palette, taken from the work of painter Hanneline Røgeberg, featured blushes, neutrals, deep burgundies and pops of moss, lime, and blue. The body was further obscured, but elegantly so, via two-toned waves that wafted up tapered trouser legs or across strapless dresses. However, just because Johansson rethought the female form doesn’t mean his looks weren’t flattering—low-slung leather trousers, high-waisted front-slit skirts, and a range of studded or camo-print denim looks were all cool, flattering and refreshing.
Johansson also placed a heavy focus on accessories, like ponyskin envelope clutches and floppy hats, angular sunglasses and chunky, geometric platform heels. “My method is to work with what’s happening to me personally throughout the six months I’m designing, and then I interpret that into the clothes,” explained the designer, adding, “I hope that people have an emotional connection to the collection.” Judging by the eruption of applause that echoed throughout the designer’s raw central London show space after his bow, it’s safe to assume Johansson got the reaction he was looking for.