“It’s Time to Be Hard”: Saint Laurent Spring Summer ’26

All photos courtesy of Julian Ribeiro.

TUESDAY 11:04 AM SEPTEMBER 30, 2025 PARIS

The morning after the Saint Laurent Spring Summer ’26 show, our editor-in-chief Mel Ottenberg gives us his take on glamour as a form of resistance.

———

TAYLORE SCARABELLI: Okay sorry, we’re recording. What were you saying?

MEL OTTENBERG: I was saying it’s interesting as America and Europe falls into fascism I’ve been really yearning for some hardcore ’80s leather. Like Grace Jones “Demolition Man” vibes. 

SCARABELLI: Yes, you were saying that recently. You were like, “It’s time to be hard.”

OTTENBERG: Yeah. When the show started I was like, “Oh, it’s so interesting that this is a real fascist aesthetic but subverted.” Do you think it’s time for a hard look?

SCARABELLI: Well, I’ve been exploring a soft look recently.

OTTENBERG: Yes, you have.

SCARABELLI: But I actually just bought a really insane ’80s black leather dress with the hugest shoulder pads ever. Every winter I go back to leather and a big shoulder, it’s a protective thing for me. It’s like projecting confidence but also being like, “Okay, I’m safe in my cocoon in this hard shell.” Does that make sense?

OTTENBERG: Oh, yeah. I just bought this perfect condition ’80s black leather, big shouldered cocoon jacket from The RealReal. It was just a size too small, so I returned it, but it gave that fantasy for me. When I saw the show, I was like, “Damn.” The leather daddy as a Saint Laurent woman feels really strong for sad times. 

SCARABELLI: Yeah. It’s leather daddy but still hyper-feminine. 

OTTENBERG: Maybe it’s glamour as resistance.

SCARABELLI: How do you feel about all these dresses? What’s the reference?

OTTENBERG: You’ve got your 20th-century fascism vibes at the beginning, and the finale  was giving Bram Stoker’s Dracula, of which I am a huge fan. Also the casting was cool. I saw Gracie Hartzel last night at dinner and she was like, “Did you see me in the show?” But I didn’t. Bella walked, Anok—

SCARABELLI: Wait, Bella? I didn’t notice her. Those sunglasses were super incognito. 

OTTENBERG: Bella’s in this yellow power shoulder. Look 31. Oh, you know what else is cool? The sharp cut-out sling-back shoe. Also, it was the right moment to invite Madonna to the show because the jewelry was very 1989 Madonna: gothic, brown hair, Los Angeles, Herb Ritts. I met her again last night and she shook my hand with a transparent black glove. Her hands are so tiny and she really looks good in person. For a Gen X faggot like myself, that’s never not a moment.

SCARABELLI: In these dark times, we need Madonna.