men's fashion week
“Patti Smith Changed My Life”: Ludovic de Saint Sernin SS24
On a smoldering hot Sunday in Paris, Ludovic de Saint Sernin brought both men’s fashion week and pride month to a close with Lust, a collection of barely-there gender fluid essentials that married queer eroticism with romanesque silhouettes. On the runway, glimmering mesh Swarovski pieces were juxtaposed with lace-up briefs and gauzy mermaid skirts accessorized with courtship cuffs, discipline chokers, and knuckle rings created in collaboration with the New York-based artist Diego Villarreal Vagujhelyi. “It’s all about the beautiful summer romance that you can experience when you go out on holidays,” de Saint Sernin told reporters backstage after the show. “I wanted [to create] something that feels sexual.”
TAYLORE SCARABELLI: Congratulations, that was so sexy.
LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN: Thank you, I mean, what else would I do on the hottest day of the year?
SCARABELLI: Right? I was like, “I need one of those naked dresses right now.”
DE SAINT SERNIN: I know, they’re so, so beautiful. I need one too. It’s all about the exploration of love and lust and desire.
SCARABELLI: And right now you’re wearing a necklace that makes it look like you’re being choked. Or like your heart’s in your throat?
DE SAINT SERNIN: This is the imprint of my friend Diego’s hands. He’s this amazing artist from New York. He’s been a muse of the brand for so long. He’s been in campaigns. We’ve shot stuff together. And now we’ve created this beautiful jewelry together.
SCARABELLI: I saw some books on the runway too, Patti Smith Just Kids, what’s up with that?
DE SAINT SERNIN: Patti Smith changed my life. Reading her book allowed me to be who I am today and have that confidence to own it and also share that message of loving who you are. There’s also a photography book by Paul Jasmine who is a photographer that I love. I kind of translate that idea of these beautiful people, summer lust—just crystalizing beauty, basically.
SCARABELLI: This collection felt like a bit of a new direction for you.
DE SAINT SERNIN: It’s a little bit more mature. You know, I started exactly six years ago and I was just a kid then. But there was everything in that first collection and I kind of wanted to go back to that. It’s a cycle and this is a new chapter for the brand and for myself. I’m just so happy with the way it came out. I couldn’t believe my eyes when I was looking at the screen during the show.
SCARABELLI: And there’s still a bit of bling.
DE SAINT SERNIN: One hundred percent. And that’s something I do myself. This is the first time in weeks that I have a manicure on. It’s a crazy amount of work but it’s a labour of love and it’s very therapeutic. I have a hard time letting go of that aspect of the brand. I just wanted to do it myself. You’re on the mannequin and you’re draping crystals and it’s just mesmerizing.
SCARABELLI: We love shiny things.
DE SAINT SERNIN: We do!