Design trio Orley, which consists of brothers Matthew and Alex and Matthew’s wife Samantha (make that “Sam”), is quickly carving a niche for the in-between, marrying traditionally feminine knitting techniques with urbane cool. For their Spring 2016 collection shown during NYFW:Men’s, the label’s knack for nattiness was heightened with a nod to androgyny (read: crop tops for everyone!) and gender fluidity first introduced for Resort 2016.
The heady result was part Brady Bunch, and part future present. Considering that gender-identity is the topic du jour, and quickly being abandoned by millennials and sports and entertainment icons alike, it makes sense that the Orley crew might ponder “what is ‘menswear’ today?”
According to Alex, “For us, it’s about showing our technique in an as impactful way as possible. The collection was inspired by our mom and dad, so we wanted to showcase both sides of that coin…not just my dad, by a little bit of my mom, too.”
Standouts included a chestnut-colored plaid peacoat and matching shorts—something the male equivalent of Bemelman’s Madeline might wear—shown with exquisite sneakers from Greats brand. There was a also a pompom crochet shell in powder blue that presented a compelling case for Greg borrowing a garment or two from Marsha when the occasion called for it.
Another highlight included a periwinkle paisley crochet jumper (item number one on Alex’s personal order—”I designed that one a bit selfishly, I must admit,” he shared). A t-shirt version of the same spectacular knit appeared on this season’s breakout model, Darius Johnson, this time discreetly tucked inside a lilac cardigan, simple shorts, and paired with those wonderfully delicious Greats x Orley paisley embroidered sneakers.
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