YSL and Bruce Weber Do Nude Suits


“If you don’t want to be nude, wear a suit,” was Bruce Weber’s message in his short film “Ain’t Nothing Like the Real Thing,” shown as an entrée to Yves Saint Laurent’s fall menswear show. A model sang to a Chihuahua, and there were plenty of nude guys frolicking around a waterfall spliced with vintage 60s footage of photographer and early bikini-wearer Bunny Yeager photographing girls in various states of undress with a background of Marvin Gaye singing and talking about sex.  In short, the film was a collection of Weber’s favorite things.

Switch to chilly January in Paris and what are those YSL lovers going to wear next winter? Suits so soft they cinch at the waist with a scarf belt in heathery blue and brown tweeds, tunic shirts with box pleats in the back which look like kilts peaking out from under square, cropped jackets, soft knit overalls with matching jackets, charms on a chain instead of buttons, sarouel trousers, and thick raised rib knits which look like wearable sculptures. Stefano Pilati is stretching the envelope of traditional menswear and the result looks like a new kind of urban folklore.  And if you don’t like that, you can always head for the closest waterfall.