Tischi’s Dance of the Seven Veils

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Published January 28, 2009

At Givenchy, Ricardo Tisci staged a couture bacchanal in an old convent, Paris’s Couvent de Cordeliers, and there were rose petals—ersatz helas—all over the floor. From the first Tisci was playing a game of hide and seek; an Edwardian sleeved flesh-tone dress with a filmy mousseline bust revealed a strategically-placed gilt harness bra. Edwardiana and flesh tones ran throughout with a ghostly interlude of sexy mummy banding in phosphorescent white, the models covered from head to toe in saintly lace veils. Tisci returned to flesh and blood soon after with bias lime and violet crepe and satin for various slinky, sultry and deadly sexy concoctions just right for modern Salomés. “I love Ricardo and I’m wearing him,” gushed Liz Goldwyn after the show, her curves ramped up in a second-skin jersey slashed and lashed with leather stitching from Givenchy’s fall collection. Lou Doillon, who’s currently putting the finishing touches on her collection for Lee Cooper, was more subdued, “Couture is an insane amount of work,” she mused, “but I love that lace.” Couture is also fleeting-once you see it, then you don’t. I found Marko designer Marko Matysik sloshing through the rose petals after the show. Matysik’s Marko accessories collection is truly one of a kind. Each piece is unique and if you don’t look quickly then pouf, it’s gone. That’s what happened to the three Marko belts Paris’s Colette had planned to feature in its couture windows. Matysik, who shuttles between Paris and London, was on the Eurostar with the belts when he ran into Daphne Guinness. She decided on the spot that she had to have all three right away. Pouf!