Milan Fashion Wrap-Up
Published July 1, 2009
There were a lot of ideas proposed by designers this season. We’ve organized them for you, alphabetically: Here is an alphabetical CliffsNotes of what we learned on the runways in Milan:
A Aquascutum: The brand never looked so good as designer Graeme Fidler looked to its past, both in the archives and recent seasons for a collection with strong influences of swinging London in the early 60’s.
B Bowl cuts: Jil Sander’s new hair statement (by hairstylist Paul Hanlon) and a nod to its inspiration, Franco-Japanese artist Tsugoharu Foujita. (LEFT: IMAGE COURTESY OF JIL SANDER)
C Camping: DSquared pitched a tent and went CAMP-ing. D DIY: Alexander McQueen’s literally hand-painted clothes, and painterly drips and strokes at Moschino and Trussardi, made you want to discover the artist inside.
E Ernest Hemingway: though nowhere a cited influence, the intelligent, rumpled, and relaxed with a fisherman vibe of the Missoni show reminded me of the writer during his days in Key West.F Foreign Legions: At Versace, foreign legions led the pack, followed full-force by utilitarian clothing. Prepare to get lost in the sand dunes of far away places—or your backyard.
G Gladiator Sandals: Tough times call for warrior-approved footwear with a techno spin at Sergio Rossi. (LEFT. PHOTOS BY MIGUEL ENAMORADO)
H Hippie trips: With Woodstock celebrating its 40th anniversary and Hair’‘s Tony winning revival on Broadway, Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier, created the best summer blazer and scarves by over-dying them in amazing Technicolor swirls. Jerry Garcia would approve.
I Italo Zuchelli: the CFDA menswear-winning designer presented a strong Calvin Klein collection, along with the best party of the season. Outside, the Duomo was lit by a giant screen showing his latest show, while editors, models, and Jamie Dornan were sprinkled like the broken glass on the patio.J Jesus Luz: Madonna’s and Dolce & Gabbana’s new “it” boy, made his runway and ad campaign debut this season. He is in the latter’s new Fall ’09 Steven Klein campaign, which, like the It Boy himself, was all over Milan.
K Kente cloth: Ethnic influences for the world bazaar (LEFT: PRINTS AT MARNI.)
L Laissez Faire: Although we are not presently living in such economic times, designers practiced this theory this season and designed clothes without getting in the way of what men are wanting: the ease and freedom of relaxed but elegant clothes. M The Mutch: def. The Male Clutch. The accessory worn by almost all of the models at Dolce&Gabbana show. (LEFT)
N Noah Mills: If it ain’t over until the fat lady sings then it doesn’t begin until this supermodel starts to sprint—down the runway, that is. It seemed like he opened or closed all of the major shows this season.
O Opening Ceremony: At Emporio Armani, new Guinness Book of World Records inductee, BMX stuntman Vittorio Brumotti opened the show with a gravity-defying number that got everyone’s pulses racing, especially the front row, as they got treated to at times an overly up close and personal performance.
P Punt Del Este: The inspiration for Ermenigildo Zegna’s South American-inspired collection.
Q Quiffs: from messy at Bottega Veneta to sleek at Gucci, it was the most versatile ‘do of the season. (LEFT: FROM GUCCI)
R Rainstorm: As inspiration for Burberry’s spring collection filled with the most covetable trenches, techno parkas (in amazing bright colors like traffic stopping red and Paddington bear yellow), tissue nylon sport jackets, and waxed coated canvas ponchos that looked Barbour-approved and London-ready.
S Swim meets: Thom Browne showed his Moncler Gamme Blue collection at a Milanese swimming pool. What does the Gamme Blue man wear to the pool? A Speedo, of course. Earlier in the week, Dolce & Gabbana hosted a cocktail party in honor of the Italian swimmers featured in their latest underwear campaign. I guess it’s time to hit the pool, especially to fit into that speedo.
T Trenches: If you are to get one piece of outerwear for spring 2010, make this the one. Every show in Milan went into the trenches..
U Ultraviolet: From deep grapes to soft bushels of lilac, the inky color made a splash on the runways for spring. V Vetiver: Tom Ford’s new fragrance, Grey Vetiver, made its preview debut on Nick Sullivan of Esquire and this esquire. (RIGHT: COURTESY OF TOM FORD)
W Whiteout: From head to toe and in layered looks, white on white on white, with more white, felt right for many designers this season. The best examples usually came in thick piques, like the sharp white suits at Gucci. Dry cleaners around the world, rejoice!
X X-RAY Vision: With layers of transparent fabrics at Calvin Klein and then layers of mesh fabrications at Prada, your underwear choice has never been so important. Though never a choice, it should always be clean.
Y Young GUNS: While there were a fair amount of shorts and bare legs this season, it was the bare arms—from sleeveless shirts, sweaters, blazers and the deep slashed vent tanks cribbed from surfers in the late 80’s—that will make waves for the urban surfers, suggests Roberto Cavalli. This could also apply to the D&G show, where Domenico and Stefano gave us their rendition of the American Wild West, with a bedazzled pit-stop in Las Vegas. (LEFT: AT CAVALLI)
Z ZERO Mosquitos: The pesky and sometimes painful—and always uninvited!—fashion week party crashers skipped the shows this season, to the delight of all.