Liana Satenstein Breaks Down the Sexy Goth Looks at Blumarine
For Blumarine’s Fall/Winter 2022 show, Creative Director Nicola Brognano pared down the bling to show us a more elevated side of the Y2K-inspired brand. To break down the new direction, we spoke to Liana Satenstein, Senior Staff Writer at Vogue and the queen of noughties fashion.
TAYLORE SCARABELLI: Welcome back.
LIANA SATENSTEIN: I’m so sorry I had to take that. It was my friend in Ukraine.
SCARABELLI: Of course, I’m sorry. I wanted to send my condolences to you. It’s a scary, scary time.
SATENSTEIN: In all honesty, I feel really horrible. Everyone I know there is in a bomb shelter.
SATENSTEIN: Yeah it’s grim. But at least we have Blumarine, right?
SCARABELLI: We love a fashion show at the end of the world. Actually this Blumarine show was a little bit darker than previous collections.
SATENSTEIN: I agree, and honestly, I think it’s a good move for Nicola. The collection is a little bit more elevated; she’s not so Y2K noughties. There’s a little bit more romance, the sex is a little bit more subdued. Before it was like ingesting a pack of Hi-Chews that are really, really delicious all at once, and this time it’s more like eating—I don’t know—like a chocolate with a cherry in it.
SCARABELLI: Exactly, it’s Y2K glam but make it a bit granny, and I mean that in the best way. I was really into the all black looks, that’s been my vibe lately.
SATENSTEIN: She’s goth and depressed but she still knows that she’s hot.
SCARABELLI: Exactly, sexy goth.
SATENSTEIN: The collection veers from almost dominatrix-y to high-octane romance, like an Italian hottie going to a funeral.
SCARABELLI: Or a girl trying to get laid at a funeral. I actually have a vintage Blumarine dress that reminds me of those looks. It has a sexy lace back, but it’s kind of conservative in the front.
SATENSTEIN: I honestly have to say that I love that look because it signifies a woman who knows exactly what she wants and she’s not ashamed. She’s just out there with it.
SCARABELLI: Totally. I also really loved the ultra-long coats and the skirts that were dragging on the ground. To me that’s very luxurious, like, “I don’t care if I ruin my shit.”
SATENSTEIN: She has a closet full of backups. No f’s given, as they say.
SCARABELLI: Did you see Chloe Cherry? She stormed the runway.
SATENSTEIN: Wait did I miss that? Hold on. Oh, my God it’s the perfect outfit, a feel-good look.
SCARABELLI: She walked LaQuan Smith too. It’s so natural for her. You wouldn’t even guess she’s a celebrity nodel.
SATENSTEIN: Blumarine looks great on her and she knows it. She’s very confident, she’s very cool, and she loves that noughties look. This girl is having the best fashion week ever.
SCARABELLI: It’s her time to shine. I was happy to see the butterfly was back on the runway.
SATENSTEIN: Yes, he loves a butterfly. I’m into it as a crop top.
SCARABELLI: The butterfly is giving me wings.
SATENSTEIN: Wait, I have a good one. What’s that song by Crazy town? You’re my butterfly, sugar bambino. That’s baby in Italian.
SCARABELLI: Oh, my God, you’re amazing.