Dion Lee

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The first looks at Dion Lee, which walked Saturday morning at Milk Studios, were deceptively simple. Several updates on the idea of white shirting appeared: sheer and slit with sculpted sleeves and monastic band collars. But nothing is ever so reductive for the Australian designer, who has made his architectural approach to the body one of his most defining signatures. Lee usually goes experimental in silhouette, but his Fall 2015 collection was streamlined without giving up complex structure, using gravity to manipulate drape.

“It started with this idea of silence and noise, something really clean and pure, and then something messy and textured and quite raw in its nature,” Lee said when we caught up with him backstage. “The volume that was created in the shapes was cut into, rather than draped off. I was trying to get a feeling that felt quite easy.”

A futuristic undercurrent ran throughout the entire outing, from the grid of LED lights at the head of the runway to the rigorous tailoring and pared down accessories. On the whole, eveningwear was a focus: remixes of the classic le smoking, slinky asymmetrical bias-cut cut-out gowns, and dresses patch-worked of strips of silk in navy and teal were subversively sexy. Satiny puffer jackets paired with sliced skinny pants added a street element. If Lee started his creative process thinking about conflicting elements, the end product brought them together seamlessly. 

For more from NYFW Fall/Winter 2015, click here.