Cavalli on the Collar

For Fall Cavalli took on the establishment and its dissidents in a period pastiche that featured plaid, flannel and creepers. Echoing both punk and its commercial incarnations, Cavalli added an Italian mod twist. There were clean-cut Vivienne Westwood-style striped blazers, plaid trousers and a slim cut black suit that will probably end up on red carpet during this award season (that is, unless designers continue to keep away). The plaid trousers and knit shirts were a little era specific, Cavalli’s outerwear were universal.  A quilted and patterned leather jacket was featured that could have worked on both James Dean and Sid Vicious—or Ed Hardy. Then there was the piece to keep all the others in line, a fox-collared bomber, an homage to the authorities that make the rules that need to be broken.