Dries Van Noten got freaky with plaid and fancy flowers. The long, loose, and layered collection of mixed-up pajamas, dressing gowns, chunky skirts, and bed jackets were topped with transparent petticoats that slipped day patterns into evening fabrics and vice versa.

Phoebe Philo's Céline could be just right for Sunday morning in bed if it wasn't all so elegant in matte silk, satin, soft leather and raw linen for tunics wrapped across the chest like a shawl, voluminous pajama pants and the surprise of furry—is that mink?—feet

Less is more, carried off with varying degrees of success, set the tone for the first day of the Paris spring collections. Le Moine Tricote, Alice Lemoine's fledgling knitting operation, proved just how much can be done with a pair of oversize needles. Lemoine began knitting for Rick Owen's Paris shop and has been designing for her own label for a few seasons now. Her intimate production, working with a nimble-fingered team in North Africa, becomes more refined each season.