It's that wonderful time of year again, New York Fashion week. Eight-season NYFW veteran Shawn Brackbill and Interview head to the shows you won't want to miss. From Proenza to Calvin to Rodarte to Marc, he'll go front row and backstage at the best and biggest shows, bringing you the top looks, hottest detail shots, and freshest faces. Follow him on Interview's Instagram and Twitter @interviewmag!
Rachel Comey is full of surprises of late. This season, the typically mens-inspired Comey took on feminine formalwear.
Tapping into the fantastical, Rodarte's arrival is studded with structured silhouettes that complicate and aggrandize the human form. But instead of getting lost in the fantasy, the ladies locate it in our contemporary reality, wielding the power of geometry with digital prints upon a muted yet electric color palette.
It was difficult not to get distracted by the Google glasses at DVF's spring show, donned by the designer and many of her models to film the show's prep for a documentary.
Badgley Mischka's runway was casual wear reimagined in chiffon and organza, in soft shades of blush, dove, ivory and nude. Their peerless body-hugging, backless evening gowns shimmered like spun sugar in the same delicate tones.
Calvin Klein solidified the black-and-white moment in New York, sendingout a series of clean and carefully contoured dresses that took theirinspiration from high-performance cars. Unexpected mixtures of mesh, leather and silk made for minimalism that was anything but boring.
At Theory, Olivier Theyskens continued the Spring trend of textured white and dove grays paired with black, lace-up booties, and quilted bags.
At his menswear show, Tommy Hilfiger mixed collegiate blazers with striped sweaters and turtle-necks for a healthy dose of American prep.
With his second line, Marc Jacobs mixes past and present, Molly Ringwald and Dakota Fanning. Jacobs goes from two extremes of the color spectrum with cinched waists, full knee-length skirts, speckled socks, mosaic patterns, and thrifted sweater prints take on salmon pinks, roasted oranges, navy, and black.
One genre of music that you will never hear at a Jason Wu show, DJ Wilson Chan assures us, is "cacophonic death metal from Tampa."
"She could beat you up," says 25-year-old Wes Gordon of his spring 2013 woman. "There's still something feminine there, something quite chic and elegant, but she has kind of an icy-ness to her."
Alex Wang surprised everyone by sending Liberty Ross down the runway. The hyphenated keys words in this show were cut-out and glow-in-the-dark.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez made fashion history in 2002 when Barneys bought their entire Parsons senior thesis collection, which would become the first Proenza Schouler collection. Last night, Proenza Schouler graduated to its first store of its own—on Madison Avenue and 69th, no less—where their neighbors include Dolce & Gabbana, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Gucci, Tom Ford, Cartier, and Prada. Valentino (whose parent company owns a 45% share of Proenza Schouler) will be opening a flagship store across the street.
The Jason Wu show opened with Carolyn Murphy, clad in a black leather dress with a netted insert just above the navel, and sporting navy nails.
Richard Chai's presentation began with a mix of light, fresh colors and patterns, which gradually transitioned into darker greys and taupe, and closed with green-gold sequined and gold lamé dresses.
This season, Thom Browne's show was all about wind up dolls—part Lewis Carroll and part Marie Antoinette in pearl-embroidered, architectural gowns and plaid skirt suits, paired with striped stockings, silver ballet shoes, and top-knots.
Ralph Lauren turned to the torero for inspiration this season. There were plenty of ruffles and slanted chapeaux and embroidered jackets, such as Hilary Rhoda's orange-red suede jacket with matching wide-legged trousers.
Model, DJ, and downtown designer darling: there's not much in the realm of "cool" that Mandy Coon hasn't conquered.
Ppl characterize women as more cautious...that's not a natural thing we're born w/, it comes about"—@abigailsbrain http://t.co/nqlG90mzT8
Out of the smoke came another classical runway show with sheer floor-length gowns and exotic prints.
While studying at Parsons School of Design, Colombians Melissa Losada and Marcela Velez discovered a shared interest in translating old-world luggage into everyday chic. "We're both from the same place, but we had never met," remembers Losada. They met one late night at the now-defunct Bungalow 8 and started talking. "Ever since it's sort of been fate."
Ohne Titel's ultraviolet tanning-lamp blues, early evening oranges, and Riviera sand neutrals edict a sleek and sun-bathed spring. The brand cleverly employs stripes, pin dots, and lengthy black accents in its RTW collection.
Leather and lace reigned at the BCBG show, which took its inspiration from the ever-revered, erotically orientated photographer Helmut Newton.
At Anna Sui, models strolled down the runway in bubblegum-pink or bright blue wigs, and embroidered-cat ears. Sui toughened up her classic printed brocade dresses with torn fishnet, leopard-print sandals, and whimsical, chunky chokers.
This week, eight-season NYFW veteran Shawn Brackbill and Interview head to the shows you won't want to miss. From Proenza to Calvin to Rodarte to Marc, he'll go front row and backstage at the best and biggest shows, bringing you the top looks, hottest detail shots, and freshest faces. Above, click through the slideshow to see work from last season.
Boxy metallic vests, blush-pink, and unisex black leather peep-toe flats reigned at Rad Hourani.
Scarves were the mot du jour at Altuzzara—the New York update on the Bedouin scarf, embroidered with gold, and fringed and incorporated into evening dresses.
Diesel Black Gold is layered in black and white, leather and vinyl this spring. But fear not: breezy, structured lightweight jackets and oversized trenches emancipate you from the winter bundle-up.
Monochrome stripes, skirt suits, cat eyeliner, and beehives dominated at Marc Jacobs as the designer revisited the ‘60s, with a few bare midriffs added in for good measure.
Tommy Hilfiger kept it collegiate at his womenswear show with red, blue, and yellow zig-zags, stripes, and lined-cable knit cardigans.
Orange suits, navy windbreakers, and hooded baseball caps took the stage at Patrik Ervell.
"Ladylike" is the adjective most often associated with Jason Wu's collections, but this afternoon, he brought sexy back to runway.
Siki Im mixed utility with luxury and references to Georgia O'Keeffe in his SS13 menswear collection. Models wore long, loose white skirts—perfect for a Moroccan sejourn—paired with black blazers or chic, grey, calfskin vests; and cow-skull like necklaces.
With his spring collection, Narciso Rodriguez presents a woman with an effortless grace you're too busy appreciating to envy. Durable in fabric, confident in color, foolproof in attitude, Rodriguez brings a re-imagined minimalism to the runway.
Sharon Wauchob has a lot on her plate. On Saturday, the Irish designer will send her spring 2013 womenswear collection for ethical fashion line Edun down the runway.