Interview brings you the best of the menswear shows from Spring/Summer 2013.
Andrea Pompilio gave his sportswear and tailoring the graphic treatment in the Spring 2013 show he presented at Florence's immense Statzione Leopolda last night. Black/orange safety stripes cut across blousons, inside the legs of boxer shorts, and up the backsides of transparent knee socks.
Who Is On Next?, the annual design competition set up by Pitti Immagine, in cooperation with Altaroma and L'Uomo Vogue to highlight young talents who produce their collections in Italy focuses on menswear each summer session at Pitti in Florence and this season six new names stepped into the spotlight.
Kris Van Assche made one of the most convincing cases for blue at Dior Homme, where his royal-blue collection covered even the shoes with risqué red laces. It was as though Van Assche wanted to blue-light an idealized version of everything men like right now: the perfect silhouette for all occasions, from sleek blousons to Spencer jackets and sleeveless tops, all presented in metronomic Kraftwerk style.
Kenzo's Creative Directors, Opening Ceremony's Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, fearlessly entered this spring's pattern jungle in simple, boyish tailoring and sports shapes covered with mix-and-match mini-florals and abstract camo offered in multiple colorways for walking shorts, camp shirts, billowing coats, varsity jackets, and anoraks.
The invitation to Guillaume Henry's first Carven men's show in Florence yesterday as Pitti's guest men's designer was kind of a giveaway. It was an illustration by France's Sempé, celebrated for his comic drawings in The New Yorker and Paris Match, of a French waiter or garçon leaping at full speed in his full-length apron, balancing a dinner platter high above his head. Held at the velodrome of Florence's Club Sportivo 1870, this was a sundown show with lace-tablecloth-adorned tables sprawled out across the grassy field piled with Tuscan aperitivo treats and jugs of country wine in straw baskets.
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The saints held sway at Givenchy. Riccardo Tisci has mined the ecclesiastical closet before, but this time he made it real. In studded black and white sandals, with stark blousons layered over coats and resplendent in satin and transparence, he continues to redefine menswear—this time in black and white and pink. The prints are the thing, of course. Givenchy's Madonnas with extra-large halos team up for blousons, shirts and ties, or flit in and out of focus.
Raf Simons knows how to twist and turn; and just because he's now Christian Dior's women's Creative Director—and presenting his first haute couture show for the house next week—doesn't mean he's not a rebel at heart.
Florence's infernal temperatures were cooling slightly when Valentino took over the airy Limonaia di Zanobi del Rosso in the city's Boboli gardens yesterday evening to present its Spring 2013 menswear collection. Without a single tie, or tucked-in shirt, wearing multi-colored running shoes from start to finish, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccoli presented their case for what Chiuri calls "living the moment."
"Water is God's tranquilizer," was the propos quote from Diana Vreeland that launched Kim Jones on Louis Vuitton's Spring collection. Seated in the pre-show dark in hot, humid Paris, watching a sinuous, computer-generated phosphorescent undersea creature flit by on the runway's slit screen backdrop, we had to agree with her.