Where would fashion be without Phoebe Philo, who has led the way back to rigorous shapes shoulder-to-shoulder with the like-minded Raf Simons at Jil Sander? These two are joined by a coterie of labels with a new style vocabulary where construction is almost invisible and curves are suggested. The effect is seamless and sculptural.
 
Philo has the last word on today's less is more, and Céline's stiff, oversized coats and tailored dresses, with big flap patch pockets and supersize belts, in white, green and Bordeaux, are military chic. And there's a new peplum tunic, sculptural, but also like a uniform, which showed throughout as a two-piece dress, over pants or in a geometric patchwork of different textured leathers. Mini pleat skirts are bicolored for a graphic look. And pants are perfectly tailored, and never tight—the antithesis of those skinny, does-my-bum-look-good-in-these jeans.