Interview

Ann Demeulemeester: Horsemen
 
You have to look closely at Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester's shows.  She's not one for massive change: It's all in the details. Patti Smith's favorite designer put her men in horsey harnesses, or rather a black leather cummerbund. It's worn like an orthopaedic belt next to the skin and peaks out sexily from the waist of light silk trousers. Instead of a coat, Ann likes  billowing boxer's robes in peach silk worn with boxy shorts. And instead of a top, there's a filmy silk cardigan, covered with rusty sequins.  There's lots of vests here too, usually worn next to the skin and then there's the troubling details, like barbed wire necklaces, which bring to mind that every rose has its thorns.