The basic T-shirt has always been an open invitation to wear a decorative message—from DIY heat transfers to Che Guevara to the meaningless ironic message (JESUS IS MY HOMEBOY, et al). This fall, the message is clear—high-end labels from Maison Martin Margiela to Givenchy are saying the once maligned graphic tee is back. The new mode is not dumbly ironic but sly, not gaudy but bold, not rent-a-catchphrase but provocative.