Interview

From the instant the National Anthem announced the start of his show, prompting an awkward negotiation of patriotic protocol, Yohji Yamamoto was in rare form at the Armory Sunday night, the scene of Y-3's Spring 2010 spectacle. From there on out, looks proceeded normally–for a little while. Men and women–and Jesus Luz!–stalked down the length of the Armory in sixty-odd versions of  sportswear in black, white, and safety orange. Of course, the traditional elements we've come to expect from Y-3–drop-crotches, roomy three-quarter length pants,  and full-skirted "jersey dresses"–were all present and accounted for, as were trendier additions, like slinky leggings, armbands, and  a few jaunty "team emblems" for good measure.

Netting was introduced to the looks approximately halfway through the show. First, it appeared inconspicuously on the women, who wore large-scale fishnet shirts as layered tanks. Then it suddenly–and literally–enveloped everything. Male models staggered forward, extremities encased in human-sized nets; women were wrapped head to toe in net "kimonos". The variations on this theme forshadowed the finale: with the drop of a giant net curtain, the fashion show suddenly transformed into an "impromptu" soccer match.  Backed by a gaggle of stern-looking models brandishing black soccer balls, model Irina Lazareanu rounded up a hapless photographer, convincing him to play "goalie" in front of the massive net. But, the ultimate surreal twist came at the very end, when a surprisingly spry Yohji Yamamoto entered the arena for his bow with soccer superstar Zinedine Zidane at his side. The odd couple shared a moment before Zidane kicked a goal with a golden ball, to the delight of a bewildered crowd.