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Rebecca Voight
10/07/2009 09:12 AM
Oh, Chloé! For me it might be the biggest shocker of Paris fashion week. What looked at first like the wrong proportions turned out to be simply real clothes as they are worn. Even the models looked natural, which was truly a first. Beginning with a patch pocket coat in mustard over leather shorts and a khaki military shirt, Hannah McGibbon's collection went minimal in a down-to-earth way before tripping the light fantastic in sunburst pleat tiers with a naïve look—so rare in Paris. And the prettiest girl on the runway was the designer herself. (LEFT: CHLOE, LOOK 17)
Who could ever imagine that at heart Karl Lagerfeld is a country boy? As if they rolled straight out of a bundle of hay, his chic Chanel maids all in milk and cream loosened up for spring in roomy jackets over bell skirts and clogs. Sometimes they dressed in identical outfits with their prince charmings which gave way to a fashion does Diane Arbus moment. This collection was a rough-edged feast, and the second half was dedicated to full-skirted knit dresses—as if fashioned by a giant's needles, for a doll-like look.
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Rodarte: More Than Window Dressing
10/07/2009 06:32 AM
The windows of Colette are full of Rodarte, but the real scoop is upstairs where Kate and Laura Mulleavy have installed a pop-up shop and curated Rodarte Gallery, a small show of their favorite work from contemporary American artists and friends including Kim Gordon, Kirsten Dunst, Alexandre de Betak, Autumn de Wilde, Karen Kilimnik and David Benjamin Sherry through November 7. In the shop are exclusive buyables from the artists but also Dennis Cooper, Miranda July, Jason Schwartzman and Brady Cunningham, sound man Michel Gaubert and hair goddess Odile Gilbert. Many of the above showed up for the opening where the new SALM (Something a la Mode) served up their rendition of Handel's sarabande from the film "Barry Lyndon." The electro classic duo (Thomas Roussel and Yannick Grandjean) has collaborated with Karl Lagerfeld—it's his voice on their "Rondo Parisiano"—on their new album out this month (Yellow label).
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10/06/2009 11:50 AM
It had to happen. A generation raised on frills, gilt and It bags has finally said, "Enough!" Minimalism is back, and it's aimed at women who didn't live through it the first time. So it's all new, shiny and different.
Nowhere was this more evident than on Monday at Celine, where Phoebe Philo has taken the reigns. Philo made Chloé one of the most coveted labels when she designed for the brand from 2001 to 2006, before leaving to spend time with her family. Now back in Paris and in her womanly 30s, she's in tune with herself and that translates into design in perfect pitch for Celine's target customer. With a nude body stocking as a base, Philo showed clean leather skirts, military shirt dresses with crisp epaulettes, laced-front tunics with a vaguely YSL feel, trench styling and wide-legged, high-waisted, self-belted trousers. This was all shown with one slip-on platform sandal—which is all a minimal girl needs, really. (LEFT: CELINE, LOOK 16)
Stella McCartney's collections also come from personal experience. She's remains true to her belief in animal rights, and never uses leather for a start. And then there's her clean, real-girl-in-a-big, big world design. Backed by New York artist Trey Speegle's oversized, paint by numbers "Yes" mural, McCartney showed a great off-the-shoulder jumpsuit wrapped in front like a bath towel. It turns out she had more than one jumper up her sleeve including a soft, short one in ombré colored tank T-shirt style. This collection was feminine, but never cloying. The season's ruffled edges appear on one side of a clean-edged jacket; the nude body stocking—a new classic this season—is covered but not smothered with lace. Shorts show with halter tops and elliptical jackets look elegant in shantung.
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Maria Luisa Poumaillou Heralds a New Printemps
10/05/2009 02:55 PM
Maria Luisa Poumaillou, whose eponymous rue Cambon store (recently relocated from around the corner on trendy rue du Mont Thabor) has been breaking new design names in Paris since it opened in 1988, may have two decades' fashion experience, but she's anything but old hat. Her latest platform is a black and white stripe shop-in-shop in the middle of the designer floor at Paris's Printemps. The department store on blvd Haussmann has only recently taken the canvas tents off its façade after a major exterior renovation and interior revamp from Yabu Pushelberg, the Canadian duo who have also swept through Tiffany's and Bergdorf Goodman. Now returned to its Belle Époque splendour on the outside, and with a gleaming black and white interior, Printemps is revving up its selection, notably with the installation of Poumaillou as Fashion Editor. Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, Christopher Kane, India's Manish Arora, L'Wren Scott, milliner Justin Smith, shoeman Pierre Hardy and even Victoria Beckham are in the Maria Luisa Printemps mix. Paris fashion avant-gardists came out on Saturday to toast the store before heading out into the city's annual all-night bacchanal La Nuit Blanche.
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Paris Day 5: Lindsay Hearts Ungaro, and More
10/05/2009 11:20 AM
The day belongs to Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy, whose optical concoction of a collection took more twists and turns than a casbah spy to break new style ground. Tisci began with minimalist, black and white jackets, harem pants, and rounded jumpsuits before he segued into ruffles, sometimes piled over a simple tank T-shirt. By then, it was clear that he favors a high waisted line for tunics over leggings. And the shoes! Those wrapped foot platforms with a zip up the back are the sexiest. Tisci pursued all over kaleidoscopic swirling checks for jackets, tunics and leggings, before heading for filmy silk togas with sequinned flowers encrusted at the shoulders and ending with angelic lace. (LEFT: GIVENCHY, LOOK 5)
"We're all wrapped up in love," cooed throaty-voiced Catherine Deneuve on the soundtrack for Dries Van Noten, an ethnic print spectacle staged in a bombed out bank near the Ritz. Van Noten, who handles pattern like no one else, was in top form with this collection, a world tour of looks, including shimmering, color-drenched batiks to ikats, kimono patterns, and sari motifs–often three at a time. These appeared in the form of padded jackets, menswear trench coats, easy trousers, pareo-like shifts, and wrapped skirts with pieces left hanging to sweep the floor like a train. The result, combined with thick jewelled ropes of pearls, was pure chic without a hint of artifice.
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