Interview

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The first show of the Milan men's season was Ermenegildo Zegna, where I sat next to Anna Zegna and we chatted about the looks as they came down the runway. She called out the thinly washed leather trench and the new silk, linen, and wool blend fabric which was used to create a very monochromatic elegant man from "Punta del Este." There was a strong Latin gentleman look from the 40's—although I had him pegged more Cubano.

Then on to Dolce & Gabbana, who looked to glamorize men with sequins, beads, and a constellation of Swarovski crystals, all of which were embroidered on to evening jackets, shirts, and just about everything else. These clothes were made for Italian happy hour—a new, popular custom in Milan—and club hopping in Ibiza, all with the help of the new Dolce "It" accessory, the Mutch (male clutch). As well as their's and Madona's appointed "It" boy, Jesus Luz,  joined a bevy of male supermodels walking the show.

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I arrived to Milan for men's Fashion Week this morning ahead of schedule and hitched a ride with Team Wilhelmina (thanks Laurie and Greg) and male supermodel Tyson Ballou. Tyson is in town to walk in the Dolce & Gabbana and D&G runway shows, but also to promote the new set of five new D&G fragrances that come out this fall. The frangrances are part of the D&G Anthology and feature an ad for each distinctive frangrance. Tyson embodies the fragrance L'Bateleure, one of two that are geared to men.

Coincidentally, Tyson and I were both staying at the Principe di Savoia, which has gotten one of those facelifts that pushes you fabulously beyond recognition, complete with a new creamy yellow color and a curved, dark gold paneled entrance. They moved the concierge desk next to what used to be the open side of the infamous bar. The renovation works on two levels: one, they've closed off the bar so that it's closed off, and in the process have soundproofed the room. The  non-fashion guests are prombably quite happy for this. Second (but related), now you can sneak into the elevators without passing by and having people see you—or vice versa, hence being sucked into "just one more drink" when you ought to, and really just want to, get to bed. We will see if this either of this hold true. Now of to Gold Restaurant to have dinner with the Dolce crew and Jesus Luz.

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I didn't have to go to Buckingham Palace for an audience with the paparazzi Queen of England. Instead I found myself on the sixth floor of Macy's lingerie department waiting to meet Victoria Beckham. Posh was gracing a less than posh locale with her presence to unveil her new ad for Emporio Armani underwear. Thankfully I skipped to the front of the line; there was quite the turn out. Once I was cleared by MI6 style security (I had to hand over my YSL bag and my sunglasses; I had to remove my hat and was asked if I had a camera phone in my possession).
 
 
Then it was my turn. Posh looked chic in this slight Rhythm Nation beaded epaulet blazer and crystal tights—from Emporio Armani, natch. I was ushered in and I introduced myself. Posh was polite and sweet; she automatically fell into the Victoria photo pose—hip out, one leg forward, head tilt. And before it began it was all over. And I was left with my new Christmas card.

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Like a Johnny Walker on the rocks, Etiqueta Negra's new SoHo boutique has a smooth, warm masculine sensibility, and the name translates to Black Label. The latest South American import to the New York retail scene (following, most recently, Osklen) is the first international venture by Polo player and car aficionado Federico Alvarez Castillo. His car collection rotates among the 12 stores, and a 1938 cherry red Alfa Romeo is currently parked in the New York location, quite prominently.

I first discovered Etiqueta Negra on a trip to Buenos Aires, which is a city where a men's wardrobe, consists of an ironed dress shirt, a T-shirt for layering, good jeans (they've already good genes), a dress shoe during the week and a driving shoe for weekends in the Mendoza or trips to Punta del Este. This sensibility is as Argentine as the imported wooden planks used to decorate the SoHo store or the Argentine leathers on the racks. What you also get are modern basics with a slim, Argentine/European fit that build timeless wardrobes.

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