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Ana Finel Honigman
11/02/2009 07:25 PM
Twin magazine, which launches in London on November 5, is the intellectual equivalent of the slow food movement. A hard-backed, bi-annual book-style magazine conceived by London's top editors, it's a thought-provoking, intellectually-nurturing meal for the mind.
Headed by Becky Smith, the founder and ex-creative director of romantic cult magazine Lula, with British Vogue's Aimee Farrell, a founding member of the Voguettes, British Vogue's DJ squad, as the features editor, it has the right pedigree. The debut issue includes articles by poet laureate Carol Ann Duffy, Miranda July, Seb Pantane, Garance Doré and Sam Winston, and features a profile of Ryan McGinley alongside shoots by Dazed & Confused alumnis Mari Sarai and Carlotta Manaigo. I pitched in text for an exclusive spread of Dublin-born photographer and filmmaker Niall O'Brien's profile of a punk gang in London, along with an interview with Christina Kruse on her satirical surreal self-portraits. Twin isn't particularly concerned with trends. Instead, the intent is to provide a showcase and forum for work the editors consider worthy. Like-minded subjects will be paired up for interviews or presented in juxtaposed profiles.
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10/27/2009 06:05 PM
In Hamburg's infamous and omniously named Reeperbahn red-light district, hunting knives and firearms glisten in shop windows next to window displays of fishnet catsuits, rhinestone-adorned dildos and posters advertising live sex shows where the copulating couples are semi-dressed as birds and bees. A short stroll away is the discreet headquarters/store for Kingdrips, a graphic design collective that sells their drawings, paintings on vintage magazine pages, handpainted surf-boards and skateboards alongside hand-sewn and hand-printed dresses, hoodies and T-shirts.
Staffed by Lutz Lindermann, Patrick Fuchs, Andreas Klammt, Mattian Weigb and Fabrian Wolf, five friends who met in the silk-screening studio at HAW Hamburg art college, Kingdrips opened its offices in their small one room basement space in December after the neighboring record label down-sized but only launched their shop-cum-gallery in May. "We figured that we were here already, so why not show our stuff in the same space?," explains Lutz Lindermann. Kingdrips had previously created the decor for Hamburg´s hip Thomas-i-Punkt store and the skater label Faith21, but their own work combnes and expands too many mediums not to be showcased under their own name. "Crash the Beach," their debut exhibition of hand-painted surf-boards, fit well with beach-obsession consuming the leading German port town, which I experienced in full at the True Religion perfume launch party that I attended at Lagos Beach sand-filled outdoor theme bar located across from the gray choppy harbor. "Surfing is very popular here," Lindermann tells me. "Hamburg is all about the water. But these are just art. You can surf on them but I suggest just admiring them instead."
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10/26/2009 02:15 PM
Phillips de Pury & Company specializes in high-end fashion photography, and have held both exhibitions and auctions in their New York and European spaces for Guy Bourdin, Mario Testino, Annie Leibovitz and Helmut Newton. Yet auction house head and auctioneer Simon de Pury hasn't not exhibited his own photographs until now—when he unveiled them for his PUREPURYGRAPHY show at Berlin's The Corner concept store on Friday night. (LEFT: COURTESY SIMON DE PURY)
Most of the 40 large-scale, single-print photographs on view are pleasing colorful abstract images that de Pury took during his travels over the years, and melded into a slick, softback catalogue akin to those produced for the auction-house's top shows. The breathless PR material coos that "PUREPURYGRAPHY is synopsis and extension, allurement and coolness, bewilderment and calm—a myriad of paradoxes through which Simon de Pury establishes yet another of his many personifications; that of a passionate and widely-off-the-beaten-track photographer."
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10/26/2009 08:37 AM
My own rickety, rusted bicycle, which I bought for 50 Euros, is such a cherished item that I sometimes dream about riding it when I'm traveling. Maybe that's because bike theft is such an epidemic, and I worry about it. If I owed the Trussardi 1911 city bike, I might go to sleep clutching. Founded in 1911 as a top-tier glove-maker, the Italian company represented by a greyhound mascot and a crest featuring upright greyhounds branched out to streetwear in the eighties. The Trussardi 1911 city bike may seem like an unexpected sideline, but it has been crafted to exemplify the grace and old-world elegance of a greyhound, and appropriately, the greyhound's noble visage can be seen on gold details adorning the bike's wheels. In sum, the unceasinge Milan Vukmirovic had designed a bike for Trussardi that is sleek, agile, elegant and epitomizes functional luxury. The bike's steel frame is painted to replicate the patina of high-quality leather, and while the seat and bike bags are made of camouflage fabric, Trussardi's bike does not blend in with the clunkers or jock-bikes it joins on the streets. Bike thieves be warned: Swiping this bike will land you in a worse place than the doghouse.
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10/22/2009 08:40 AM
"Leather is grown not made. It is skin. We feel naturally connected to it," declares Canadian-born and Berlin-based Jennifer Gilpin of the design duo Don't Shoot the Messengers. With her partner, fashion and costume designer Kyle Callanan, Gilpin focuses on supple geometrically-cut leather dresses and skirts. The team began their collaboration after Gilpin's travels in Morocco inspired her interest in the sensual qualities of leather. Originally called Garter & Asp, an appellation merging a harmless snake with one that is lethally poisonous, the line aimed to create elegant yet subversively sexy feminine garments. "There is a sort of darkness that we look at," says Gilpin. "Our aesthetic comes from an undefined place, yet we both seek to define it and rein it in. We look at development of a feeling, a world for each collection, not necessarily restrained by the seasonal movements. Each of these worlds are linked yet separate and unique, a specific line remains that passes though each." The designers aim to incorporate other tactile material including silk and other light fabrics to complement their masterful use of leather and exotic skins such as stingray. But the focus of their line is not the materials but their artful cutting and construction based on triangular cuts and a careful adherence to the body's curves. Gilpin sums up their aesthetic as, "Geometry in relation to the body is key for us. What we want is make clothes that are molten, elegant, sexy, and just a little bit rock 'n roll." (GILPIN AND CALLANAN, PHOTO BY MAXIME BALLESTEROS)
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